Cena della Vigilia

For our family, Christmas Eve, La Vigilia di Natale, is the most anticipated night of the year. The holiday traditions of my mother’s grandmother have been accepted enthusiastically by each new generation, including the youngest members of our clan. When we gather for dinner on Christmas Eve, we expect to find seven kinds of fish (representing the seven sacraments), a tradition that many Southern Italians observe. I’m told that you won’t find this custom north of Rome. I’m also told that in some regions, the number of fish dishes offered may be nine (for the Trinity times three) or thirteen (for Jesus and his disciples).

The types of fish and the manner of preparing them vary greatly. We could not imagine Christmas Eve without calamari and swordfish. In some families eel is a must. Other fish and shellfish that might appear include cod, shrimp, fresh tuna, clams, anchovies, scallops, whiting or salmon. The work involved is usually divided among several cooks, but the joy is shared by all.These recipe suggestions for Cena della Vigilia are all from Ann Sorrentino’s cookbook “From Ann’s Kitchen.”


PASTA CON SALSA DI CALAMARI
(Pasta with Squid Sauce)

1-1/2 pounds calamari
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, diced
1 large clove garlic, minced
2 or 3 anchovy fillets (optional)
1 (28-ounce) can plum tomatoes
1 (6-ounce) can tomato paste
1 tomato paste can water
2 teaspoons salt, or less, to taste
1 teaspoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon basil
1/4 teaspoon oregano
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley, or 2 teaspoons dried
1 small bay leaf
1/4 cup dry white wine (optional)
1 pound linguine or spaghetti, cooked
Toasted bread crumbs

Clean the squid, reserving the fins and tentacles. When the body is thoroughly cleaned, cut the sac open, lay it flat and cut it into 2-inch squares. Add to the fins and tentacles and set aside.

Heat the oil in a saucepan, add the onion and cook over a medium heat for a few minutes. Add the garlic and cook an additional 3 minutes. Add the optional anchovies and stir with a wooden spoon, cooking until the anchovies are dissolved. If using anchovies, be sure to adjust the salt.

Remove 5 or 6 tomatoes from the can, chop them and set them aside. Place the balance of the tomatoes and their liquid in a blender and blend for 30 seconds. Add this to the onion-garlic mixture in the pan along with the tomato paste and water. Stir and cook for 15 minutes.

Add the seasonings, reserved chopped tomatoes and optional wine and simmer for 1 hour. Add the cleaned squid and cook gently until they are tender. Start checking them after 25 minutes.

Serve over pasta and sprinkle with toasted bread crumbs instead of cheese.


PESCE SPADA FRITTO
(Fried Swordfish)

2 pounds swordfish
2 large eggs
2 tablespoons water
1/4 cup grated Romano cheese
1 clove garlic, through a press
2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Salt and pepper to taste
2 cups bread crumbs
Olive oil
Lemons and parsley for garnish

If you purchase frozen swordfish steaks that are fairly thick, slice them in half horizontally while they are still partially frozen, creating two thinner servings from each steak. Rinse them, pat them dry and set aside.

Beat the eggs with the water, cheese, garlic, parsley, salt and pepper. For the best flavor, do not substitute with dried parsley, and be sure to use the flat-leaf (Italian) parsley. Dip each piece of fish in the egg/cheese mixture and then in the bread crumbs. Pat the crumbs onto the fish with the palm of your hands to make sure they adhere well. Place the fish on wax paper and let it stand for 30 minutes, turning once.

Heat the olive oil in a skillet and carefully fry the fish to a golden brown. Place the fish in a baking pan or jellyroll pan and bake in a preheated 325-degree oven for 30 minutes. Serve on a platter decorated with lemon wedges and fresh parsley.


BACCALA ALLA SICILIANA
(Codfish, Sicilian-Style)

2 pounds fresh or frozen codfish
4 potatoes, pared and quartered
1/2 cup olive oil
1 large onion, sliced
2 cloves garlic, through a press
1/2 cup dry white wine
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 (8-ounce) jar black Italian olives, pitted
2 tablespoons capers
2 tablespoons pine nuts
2 tablespoons golden raisins,
2 pounds fresh tomatoes, peeled, seeded, drained and chopped OR
1 (28-ounce) can of tomatoes, seeded, drained and chopped
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
1 teaspoon basil

Cut the fish into serving pieces, rinse and pat them dry. Cook the potatoes in boiling salted water, covered, for about 5 to 7 minutes. Drain them and reserve the water, which may be added to the casserole later if additional liquid is needed.

Put the oil into a large skillet and sauté the onion and garlic until golden in color. Put the cod pieces over the onion-garlic mixture and cover with the wine. Season with salt and pepper and cook until the wine has almost evaporated.

Carefully transfer the fish to a large greased earthenware or glass casserole. Arrange the potatoes between and around the fish. Add the olives, capers, pine nuts, and raisins, distributing them over the fish and potatoes.

Cover everything with the chopped tomatoes and the onion-garlic mixture from the skillet. Sprinkle with parsley and basil and season with additional salt and pepper. Bake in a preheated 350-degree oven for 30 to 35 minutes, or until the fish flakes easily. Halfway through the cooking time, check the casserole to see if additional liquid is necessary.


FETTE DI TONNO FRITTO CON CIPOLLE
(Sliced Fresh Tuna Fried with Onions)

1-1/2 pounds fresh or frozen tuna, sliced 1/4-inch thick
1/3 cup flour
1/2 teaspoon garlic salt
1/2 teaspoon each: dried basil, dried oregano
1/3 cup olive oil
1 large onion, thickly sliced
1/4 cup wine vinegar
2 tablespoons water
Salt and pepper to taste
1/2 to 1 teaspoon sugar
Fresh parsley and basil, chopped (optional garnish)

Cut the tuna into serving pieces. If you purchase frozen tuna steaks, they may be cut in half horizontally while still partially frozen to create 1/4-inch servings. Rinse and pat dry. Mix the flour with the garlic salt and herbs. Dust the tuna slices in the seasoned flour. Heat the oil in a non-stick skillet and brown the tuna in the hot oil without crowding the pan. Place the fish on a large dish or small platter, slightly overlapping the slices.

Add the onion to the skillet and cook over moderate heat until limp and lightly browned. Add the vinegar, water, salt, pepper and sugar. Cook a few minutes to combine the flavors. Pour the mixture evenly over the tuna slices. Let stand a half-hour and serve. If desired, sprinkle with chopped parsley and basil just before serving. This dish is also very good served cold.


FRUTTI DI MARE
(Seafood Salad)

1 pound medium shrimp
1 pound calamari, cleaned and cut into rings
1/2 pound bay scallops or sea scallops
1 small onion, diced
1/2 cup minced celery
2 tablespoons minced red or green pepper (optional)
Condimento di Limone ed Olio (see below)
Parsley for garnish (optional)

Cook the shrimp, calamari and scallops separately in boiling salted water with 1 tablespoon of lemon juice added.

Cook the shrimp 2 to 5 minutes or until they turn pink. Remove the shells and back veins.

To cook the calamari, add them to boiling water, reduce to a simmer, and cook approximately 10 to 15 minutes. Test for doneness. The rings should not be rubbery.

If sea scallops are used cut them each in half. Cook the scallops only until they are no longer translucent. After about 1 minute they will appear white and they are done.

Combine the prepared seafood with the onion, celery and pepper (if using). Toss well with a generous amount of the Lemon and Oil Dressing. Chill. At serving time place in a serving bowl using a slotted spoon. Pour some of the Lemon Dressing over the seafood. Sprinkle with snips of parsley, if desired.


CONDIMENTO DI LIMONE ED OLIO
(Lemon and Oil Dressing)

1/2 cup lemon juice from fresh lemons
1 clove garlic, through a press
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley or 1 teaspoon dried
3 large basil leaves, chopped or 1 teaspoon dried
2 fresh mint leaves, chopped or 1/2 teaspoon dried
1/2 teaspoon oregano, or to taste
1/2 teaspoon onion salt
1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste
1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper, or to taste
1 cup olive oil

Ream the juice from 2 or 3 lemons, until 1/2 cup is accumulated. Put it in a bowl and add all the ingredients except the olive oil. Mix and stir to dissolve the salts. Add the oil, slowly beating it into the mixture. If not used immediately, store the dressing in a tightly covered container in the refrigerator. Shake well before each use.

NOTE: Another traditional Christmas Eve dish for our family is a cold broccoli salad served with this same dressing. Arrange the cooked broccoli on a large round platter to resemble a wreath and decorate with cherry tomatoes. Place a small bowl of the Lemon Dressing in the center.

Remembering Summer

A few years ago I rediscovered a stash of 8-millimeter home movies among the treasures of my Aunt Christina. Over 50 years old and shot primarily outdoors, the grainy images bolster my memories of childhood summers. In scene after scene, three generations of our family are gathered in parks and picnic groves and backyards. The children are chasing each other or playing made-up games; great aunts are fanning themselves or comforting a baby. Huge jugs of lemonade line every picnic table and, invariably, my Grandma or Uncle Andrew is standing over a charcoal fire tending homemade sausage and grilling marinated chicken for the feast.

These are still the foods I think of when planning a picnic, and I try to devise other portable dishes to bring along. To past generations of my family, all food was portable since they didn’t mind the planning and effort that it took to carry it off. More and more it seems that, after a long work week, people favor the expediency of catered provisions for their outings. Yet since I have such strong memories of lovingly prepared picnic foods, I still prefer to come up with a few homemade dishes that travel well.

One such dish is Eggplant Parmigiana since we like it hot, warm, or at room temperature. I enjoyed my friend Tena Amico’s version so much that I asked her to share the recipe. I’m also including some simpler dishes that remind me of the flavors from my mother's kitchen but will get you out of the kitchen fast.

This month I hope you’ll set aside some time, find a shady spot, and enjoy an outdoor meal with your loved ones -- especially the children in your life.



CIABATTA IMBOTTITA
(Picnic Sandwich Loaf)

1 (1 pound) loaf ciabatta bread
Olive oil
Olivada (Italian olive spread)
Pesto sauce (optional)
6 slices salami
6 slices cappicola
6 slices prosciutto
6 slices provolone
Roasted red peppers
Fresh basil leaves (optional)
Red leaf lettuce

Cut the ciabatta loaf in half lengthwise and drizzle both sides with olive oil. Spread olivada on both sides, or use olivada on one side and pesto sauce on the other. Layer the bottom half with the meats and cheese. Top with sliced roasted peppers and, if not using the pesto, shredded fresh basil. Add the leaf lettuce. Carefully place the top of the bread over all and press down firmly. Wrap the loaf in plastic wrap and then in foil to transport to your picnic. Don’t forget to bring a serrated knife to cut the loaf into four servings. Alternately, you can purchase 4 ciabatta rolls and make individual sandwiches.

NOTE: Ciabatta, which means “slipper,” refers the shape of the bread. It is appearing more frequently in stores and bakeries. You can purchase commercial olivada, or use the olive spread recipe that follows. Pesto sauce is also sold in small jars.


-Lori Sennebogen



OLIVÉ TRITATE
(Chopped Olive Spread)

6 ounces pimento-stuffed Manzanilla olives, minced
1 (4-1/2 ounce) can chopped black olives
5 or 6 tablespoons olive oil
1/4 teaspoon oregano (or to taste)
1/4 teaspoon Tabasco (or to taste)
1 clove garlic, pressed

Finely mince the green olives and pimentos and stir together with the chopped black olives. (You may substitute an equal amount of Mediterranean black olives for added flavor.) Combine with the remaining ingredients. Store in a covered container for at least one day before serving to allow the flavors to blend. This is good as a spread on sandwiches made with Italian lunchmeats. Alternately it may be served as a party appetizer spread, surrounded with thinly sliced, crusty bread.


-Lori Sennebogen



MELANZANA ALLA PARMIGIANA
(Eggplant Parmigiana)

2 medium eggplants
Salt
1 egg mixed with 1 ounce water
Seasoned breadcrumbs (recipe follows)
Olive oil
Corn oil
Marinara Sauce (recipe follows)
3 ounces Romano Cheese, grated
8 ounces (or more) mozzarella cheese, grated

Prepare the seasoned breadcrumbs and marinara sauce in advance and set aside. Trim off the top and bottom of the eggplants but DO NOT PEEL. Slice them 1/4-inch thick and place the slices in a colander, salting each layer. Place a heavy bowl or something else of weight on top. Allow to rest for at least 30 minutes. Pat each slice dry with paper towels. Beat the egg and water together. Dip the slices in the egg and then in the seasoned breadcrumbs. Set aside to let the crumbs dry and adhere to the eggplant.

Add half olive oil and half corn oil to a skillet to a depth of 1-1/2 inches and heat well. When the oil is very hot, brown the slices of eggplant on both sides and set aside on a plate lined with paper towels.

Cover the bottom of a 13-inch by 9-inch glass casserole or baking pan with a small amount of the marinara sauce. Add a layer of the eggplant slices, top with some sauce and then grated Romano and grated mozzarella. Continue layering in that order, finishing up with the mozzarella cheese. Use the mozzarella generously or sparingly, depending on your preference.

Bake in a preheated 350-degree oven for approximately 30 minutes or until the cheese is melted. Covering with aluminum foil is optional.


Seasoned Breadcrumbs

1/2 loaf Italian bread, one day old
4-5 sprigs flat-leaf parsley
4 cloves garlic, cut up
2 ounces Romano cheese, grated
Salt and pepper to taste

If using fresh bread, toast it slightly. Place the cut up dry bread in a food processor or blender and grind briefly. Add the parsley, garlic, cheese, salt and pepper. Grind again until it reaches a semi-fine breadcrumb consistency.

This is a good mixture to keep on hand for many recipes. Any unused crumbs may be stored in a sealable plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to 2 months.


Marinara Sauce

1 small onion, minced
2-3 cloves garlic, minced
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 (16-ounce) can crushed tomatoes
1 (8-ounce) can tomato sauce
1 cup water
3-4 basil leaves, chopped
Salt and pepper to taste

Sauté the onion and garlic in the olive oil until they begin to take on color. Do not let them burn. Add the remaining ingredients and cook on medium heat for 30 minutes.


-Tena Amico



FUSILLI ALLA ZIA CRISTINA
(Aunt Christina’s Fusilli Salad)

4 cups (8 ounces) fusilli or rotini
1 tablespoon corn oil
2 cups green beans, cut in 1-inch pieces
1/4 pound salami, cut in strips
1/4 pound provolone cheese, cut in cubes
1/4 cup sliced red onion
1/2 cup sliced black olives (optional)
1 (6.5-ounce) jar artichoke hearts, drained (optional)
2 cups shredded lettuce

Dressing: 3 tablespoons red wine vinegar, 1/4 cup olive oil, 1 teaspoon each oregano, basil and prepared mustard, 2 cloves crushed garlic, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1/4 teaspoon sugar, 1/8 teaspoon pepper. Blend together and set aside.

Cook pasta, rinse under cold water and drain well. In a large bowl, toss the pasta with 1 tablespoon of corn oil. Cover and chill.

Blanch the green beans for 5 minutes, then rinse in cold water. Drain well. Add the beans, salami, cheese, onions and optional olives and artichoke hearts to the pasta. Pour on the dressing and combine well. Chill 2 to 4 hours. Just before serving add the shredded lettuce and toss again.

-Christine Dugo



POMODORI ALLA PIEMONTESE
(Tomatoes with Green Sauce)

5 medium ripe tomatoes
3-4 anchovies, minced
2 cups fresh flat-leaf parsley, minced
2 tablespoons capers, minced
1 small clove garlic, minced
1/2 cup olive oil
1/4 cup wine vinegar
Salt and black pepper to taste

Select tomatoes that are ripe but still firm and slice them 1/4-inch thick. Arrange the slices on a platter. Combine the finely minced anchovies, parsley, capers and garlic in a mixing bowl. Thoroughly whisk in the olive oil and vinegar. Add salt to taste, depending on the saltiness of the anchovies. Add pepper and taste again. Seal tightly in a jar and transport the sauce and tomatoes separately to your picnic. Shake the sauce very well and spoon it over the tomatoes just before serving. Optional: add your favorite black olives to the platter of tomatoes.


-adapted from Rudy Leoni

Remembering Dad

My father, Tony Sorrentino, was born in Marsala, Sicily, in 1913. Dad often recalled the tranquility of his first six years, living at edge of the Mediterranean Sea in the beautiful place known throughout the world for its amber-colored fortified wine. At that time Marsala had no harbor, so my grandfather and his brothers were engaged in the business of transporting Marsala wine in small boats from the shore to the large ships out on the Mediterranean.

Produced in dry (secco) and sweet (dolce) varieties, Marsala is aged in wooden casks and tastes similar to Spanish and Portuguese sherries. It has a complex aroma and flavor and a high alcohol content of 16 to 20 per cent. It is sometimes served as a dessert wine chilled or at room temperature, and is perfect with fruit, pastries and spicy cheeses. I enjoy using sweet or dry Marsala in cooking because it lends a special flavor to many dishes and always makes me feel close to my roots. In honor of my father and his father, I am offering some recipes that you might consider for your Father’s Day celebrations.

Be wary of "Marsala Cooking Wine," sold with the condiments at the supermarket. They are made with cheap base wines, food coloring and loads of salt. Look for Marsala labeled fine, superiore, superiore riserva, or the highest quality, vergine – aged five to ten years. Your father is surely worth it!

POLLO AL MARSALA
(Chicken Marsala)

1 tablespoon olive oil or butter
2 boneless, skinless chicken breasts
Salt and pepper to taste
1/2 cup chopped onion
1 teaspoon minced garlic
4 ounces sliced fresh mushrooms
1/2 cup Marsala
1/3 cup heavy whipping cream

Pound the chicken breasts flat, season them lightly with salt and pepper, and saute them in the olive oil or butter over medium heat for about 4 minutes per side. Remove the chicken breasts from the pan. Add the onion and mushrooms and saute until they take on a little color. Add the garlic and cook a minute longer. Return the chicken breasts to the pan, add the Marsala and cook for one minute. Add the cream and a little more salt and pepper. Lower the heat and simmer gently for five to eight minutes, until the center of the breasts are cooked through. Serve with the wine and mushrooms poured over the chicken. This recipe may be doubled.

-adapted from Banfi Vintners


CAROTE CON MARSALA
(Carrots with Marsala Wine)

6 medium carrots, scraped
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons Marsala wine
1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley
Salt and pepper to taste

Slice the carrots diagonally into 1/2-inch coins and precook them very briefly in lightly salted water, for about 3 to 4 minutes. Drain well and rinse in cold water to stop them from "cooking" further. Set aside until just before dinner. Melt the butter in a skillet and add the carrots, stirring to coat them. Add the remaining ingredients and cook over medium heat until the carrots are tender crisp. Turn up the heat near the end to cook off some of the wine, if necessary. Taste for seasoning and serve.

-Lori Sennebogen


BISCOTTI DI MARSALA
(Marsala Wine Cookies)

3/4 cup snipped dried apricots
1/2 cup sweet Marsala wine
1 stick butter, softened
1 cup sugar
2 eggs
1/2 teaspoon lemon zest
2-3/4 cups flour
1-1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt

In a small bowl, soak the snipped apricots in the wine for at least 30 minutes. Drain and set aside, reserving the wine.

In an electric mixer, cream the butter and sugar. Add the eggs, 3 tablespoons of the reserved wine and the lemon zest. Mix until blended. Combine the flour with the baking powder and salt. Reduce the mixer speed to low and gradually add the dry ingredients. Stir in the apricots by hand. This is a soft dough, so refrigerate it for about 30 minutes to make it easier to work with.

Lightly flour your hands and your work surface and divide the dough into three equal pieces. Roll each into a loaf about 10-12 inches long. Use a pastry brush to brush the top of the loaves with some of the remaining Marsala. Sprinkle with some additional sugar, if desired. Carefully transfer to lightly greased baking sheets.

Bake in a preheated 375-degree oven for 20 to 25 minutes or until lightly golden. Allow to cool. Use a bread knife to slice on the diagonal into 1/2-inch biscotti.

OPTIONAL: If you like cookies for dunking, return the sliced cookies to the oven and bake until lightly toasted, about 6-8 minutes per side.

-Lori Sennebogen

Happy Easter

There is an Italian expression that captures the gladness of Easter. When one is bursting with joy he is said to be “contento come una Pasqua”, happy as an Easter Sunday. The implication may be religious happiness, since the significance of Easter morning is the basis of Christian faith. On another level, the sense of unbounded joy may refer to the anticipation of a feast after weeks of penance and fasting.

Although roast lamb is the traditional Pascal meal, I’m offering an alternative entrée of roast pork for those who don’t enjoy lamb and are weary of ham. I’m also including a recipe for special potatoes from my brother-in-law’s mother, Prudence Dispensa. They are popular with everyone, but require some tending so they don’t stick to the pan.

For our family, it is not Easter if I don’t make my mother’s calzone. We eat it as an appetizer and I usually make a triple recipe so everyone can take some home to eat the next day. It is a savory pie, sometimes called Pizza Rustica. It resembles quiche. That recipe can be found on page 54 of "From Ann's Kitchen: The Recipes and Reminiscences of Ann Sorrentino." (On shelf at the Downers Grove Public Library 641.5945 SOR)

Happy Easter to all.

INSALATA PER PRIMAVERA
(Springtime Salad)

For each person, line an individual salad plate with a variety of tender mixed greens, torn up. On each serving, attractively arrange 3 cooked and peeled shrimp, two black olives, 2 cherry or grape tomatoes, two spears of cooked asparagus and a slice of hard-cooked egg. At serving time, drizzle with your favorite homemade oil and vinegar dressing. Balsamic vinegar is especially nice with this salad.

-Lori Sennebogen



ARISTA
(Pork Loin Roast)

1 teaspoon fennel, ground
1/2 teaspoon rosemary, crushed
1 teaspoon garlic salt
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 (3 pound) boneless pork loin roast
Paprika (optional)

Combine the first four seasonings with the olive oil and roll the roast in this mixture. Place in a roaster with deep sides. Spoon any leftover seasoning mixture onto the roast. Sprinkle with paprika if desired. Bake at 325 degrees for 35-40 minutes per pound or until a meat thermometer inserted in the center of the roast reaches 170 degrees. Let rest for 15 minutes before slicing. While roast is resting, make pan gravy if desired.

NOTE: I use a small pepper mill to grind the fennel. This is an efficient alternative to crushing it or grinding it in a blender.

-Lori Sennebogen


PATATE CROCCANTI
(Crispy Golden Potatoes)

6 large potatoes
1/4 cup flour
1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon pepper
1/3 cup butter
Fresh parsley, chopped

Peel the potatoes and cut into quarters or sixths. Combine the flour, cheese, salt and pepper in a bag. Moisten the potatoes with water. Shake a few at a time in the bag, coating them well. Melt the butter in a 9-inch-by-13-inch pan. Add the potatoes and bake in a preheated 375-degree oven for 1 hour. Turn several times during baking using a spatula. When golden brown, remove to a serving bowl and sprinkle with parsley. These work out well if baked in a Teflon-coated roasting pan.

-Prudence Dispensa

Hi –

Some of you already know that I come from a family of serious Italian cooks. My mother, Ann Sorrentino, wrote a column for the Italian-American newspaper Fra Noi for many years. After she passed away, the paper’s editor asked me to help him put together a cookbook of her personal recipes. It was a labor of love and was published as “From Ann’s Kitchen: The Recipes and Reminiscences of Ann Sorrentino.” You can find a copy at the Downers Grove Public Library in Dewey number 641.5945 SOR.

A few years went by and the Fra Noi asked me to consider writing a monthly food column similar to my Mom’s. I’ve been doing this since about 2002. I continue to enjoy it because it makes me feel close to my mother and to the wonderful food memories I have of her amazing kitchen. This month in honor of the Feast of St. Joseph on March 19, I wrote about the Italian custom of holding a celebration in the saint’s honor. I have written about this event in previous years, but this month I wrote about the St. Joseph Day memories of the late actor Vincent Schiavelli. In addition to being a versatile character actor, he was a talented cook and storyteller. I’m sharing the introduction with you as well a few recipes that appeared this month. I hope you enjoy them.

“Bruculinu, America” is Vincent Schiavelli’s reminiscence of growing up Sicilian-American in Brooklyn in the 1950s and ‘60s. In it he recalls a neighborhood St. Joseph’s Day celebration planned every year by Maria Roccaforte who explained that St. Joseph had spoken to her in a dream. “I want you, Maria, to feed six orphans at a feast in my honor.” She dutifully followed the saint’s wishes, and every year her St. Joseph’s Table grew and grew until her death 65 years later. “For the celebration,” Schiavelli remembers, “Mrs. Roccaforte’s Stockholm Street apartment was transformed into part shrine, part cornucopia.” Multi-tiered tables were set up in every room, replacing her usual furnishings. They were swathed in white coverings and ornamented with votive candles, statues, holy pictures, lilies, Christmas lights and potted palms. “Oranges, pineapples and bananas filled in any empty spaces that could be found,” Schiavelli explains.

He also has vivid memories of the food overload. “Mountains of stuffed artichokes and bell peppers and cords of fried asparagus and zucchini were but a few of the vegetables presented. There were schools of fried fish, and a harvest of pasta tossed with garlic and olive oil, or with fava beans or green peas, or with chickpeas. The pasta was prepared in batches to keep it hot because no self-respecting Sicilian would ever eat cold pasta, not even for St. Joseph.”

Last month I published recipes for baked artichokes and fried asparagus, and if you still have the column handy, they would be perfect for St. Joseph’s Day. I hope some of these suggestions will encourage you to honor St. Joseph at your table on March 19.


INSALATA ALLA ROMANA
(Crisp Bitter Greens with Anchovy Dressing)

8 ounces bitter salad greens (see text)
5 oil-packed anchovy fillets
2 cloves garlic
2 tablespoons lemon juice or red wine vinegar
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

The classic Roman version of this salad is made with puntarelle, bitter greens that are difficult to find and require soaking in ice water to remove some of their bitterness. Use trimmed and washed frisée or endive instead. If using frisée, separate the leaves. If using endive, thinly slice it. Place the greens in a bowl. Puree the anchovies and garlic in a blender or food processor. Add the lemon juice or vinegar and pulse to blend. With the machine still running, add the oil in a slow steady stream. Gently toss the greens and dressing.

-adapted from Sara Jenkins


GAMBERI AL MARSALA
(Shrimp in Marsala)

1 pound medium to large shrimp, peeled and deveined
1/3 cup Marsala wine
4 teaspoons of butter, divided
2 tablespoons olive oil
3 tablespoons minced onion
1 clove garlic, through a press
Salt and pepper
Fresh parsley, chopped

Place the cleaned shrimp in a glass bowl and pour the Marsala wine over them. Refrigerate for 30 minutes or more, stirring occasionally.

Melt 3 teaspoons (1 tablespoon) of the butter in a skillet and add the olive oil. Sauté the onion for 5 minutes. Remove the shrimp from the wine with a slotted spoon and add to the skillet along with the garlic. Sauté until the shrimp turn pink and are just cooked through, about 5-6 minutes, depending on their size. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Add 3 tablespoons of the Marsala to the shrimp and heat through. Just before serving, stir in the remaining 1 teaspoon of butter and swirl until melted. Sprinkle with chopped parsley.

-Lori Sennebogen


VERDURA AL FORNO
(Oven-Roasted Vegetables)

1 small eggplant
2 medium zucchini
1 red pepper
1 green pepper
1 yellow pepper
1 large sweet onion
3 carrots
Fennel (optional)
Portobello mushrooms (optional)
2 cloves garlic
Extra virgin olive oil
10 cherry tomatoes, halved
Fresh chopped herbs
Romano or Parmigiano cheese

Peel the eggplant if you wish and slice into one-inch rounds. Place on paper towels and sprinkle with salt. Cover with additional paper towels and place something heavy on top of the slices for 20 to 30 minutes.
Slice the zucchini on an extreme angle for oval slices. Core and quarter the peppers, removing the white pith. Slice the onion thickly. Pare the carrots and cut them into thick sticks. Cut the garlic cloves in half. If using the fennel and mushrooms, slice them as well. Rinse the eggplant slices and pat them dry.

Place all of the vegetables (except the tomatoes) on two or more baking sheets. Brush them with plain or seasoned olive oil. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Turn and brush the second side with oil as well, adding more salt and pepper. Place them in a preheated 450-degree oven and roast them for about 30 minutes. Half way through, turn the vegetables gently, aided by a spatula. Add halved cherry tomatoes at this point and return to the oven, rotating the baking sheets so that the one that was on the bottom rack is now on the top. Continue roasting until the vegetables are tender and starting to brown. Turn on the broiler for just a few minutes at the end if they are not browning enough.

Remove from the oven, discard the garlic and arrange the vegetables attractively on a large platter. Sprinkle with chopped herbs such as basil or flat-leaf parsley. Pour any vegetable juices from the pan over the vegetables and drizzle with additional olive oil if desired. Add a sprinkling of grated cheese over all. If you prefer, you can use a vegetable peeler to add shavings of cheese instead. Any leftovers make a great vegetarian sandwich on crusty bread.

-Lori Sennebogen


PANE DI SAN GIUSEPPE
(St. Joseph's Bread)

1/2 cup unsalted butter, softened
1 cup sugar
1 teaspoon anise seed
1/4 teaspoon almond extract
5 large eggs
2-1/2 cups all purpose flour, sifted before measuring
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
2/3 cup chopped toasted almonds

Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter a 9x5-inch loaf pan. Cream the butter and sugar with an electric mixer on high. Crush the anise seeds between the palms of your hands and add them along with the almond extract. Mix well. Add the eggs one at a time, mixing well after each addition. Stop the mixer and add the dry ingredients and almonds. Mix until just combined.
Transfer the batter to the prepared pan. Bake until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, 60 to 65 minutes. Remove from the pan and cool on a wire rack before slicing.
NOTE: A mixer isn't necessary – sometimes I mix it by hand.

- Becky Sien