Cena della Vigilia

For our family, Christmas Eve, La Vigilia di Natale, is the most anticipated night of the year. The holiday traditions of my mother’s grandmother have been accepted enthusiastically by each new generation, including the youngest members of our clan. When we gather for dinner on Christmas Eve, we expect to find seven kinds of fish (representing the seven sacraments), a tradition that many Southern Italians observe. I’m told that you won’t find this custom north of Rome. I’m also told that in some regions, the number of fish dishes offered may be nine (for the Trinity times three) or thirteen (for Jesus and his disciples).

The types of fish and the manner of preparing them vary greatly. We could not imagine Christmas Eve without calamari and swordfish. In some families eel is a must. Other fish and shellfish that might appear include cod, shrimp, fresh tuna, clams, anchovies, scallops, whiting or salmon. The work involved is usually divided among several cooks, but the joy is shared by all.These recipe suggestions for Cena della Vigilia are all from Ann Sorrentino’s cookbook “From Ann’s Kitchen.”


PASTA CON SALSA DI CALAMARI
(Pasta with Squid Sauce)

1-1/2 pounds calamari
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, diced
1 large clove garlic, minced
2 or 3 anchovy fillets (optional)
1 (28-ounce) can plum tomatoes
1 (6-ounce) can tomato paste
1 tomato paste can water
2 teaspoons salt, or less, to taste
1 teaspoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon basil
1/4 teaspoon oregano
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley, or 2 teaspoons dried
1 small bay leaf
1/4 cup dry white wine (optional)
1 pound linguine or spaghetti, cooked
Toasted bread crumbs

Clean the squid, reserving the fins and tentacles. When the body is thoroughly cleaned, cut the sac open, lay it flat and cut it into 2-inch squares. Add to the fins and tentacles and set aside.

Heat the oil in a saucepan, add the onion and cook over a medium heat for a few minutes. Add the garlic and cook an additional 3 minutes. Add the optional anchovies and stir with a wooden spoon, cooking until the anchovies are dissolved. If using anchovies, be sure to adjust the salt.

Remove 5 or 6 tomatoes from the can, chop them and set them aside. Place the balance of the tomatoes and their liquid in a blender and blend for 30 seconds. Add this to the onion-garlic mixture in the pan along with the tomato paste and water. Stir and cook for 15 minutes.

Add the seasonings, reserved chopped tomatoes and optional wine and simmer for 1 hour. Add the cleaned squid and cook gently until they are tender. Start checking them after 25 minutes.

Serve over pasta and sprinkle with toasted bread crumbs instead of cheese.


PESCE SPADA FRITTO
(Fried Swordfish)

2 pounds swordfish
2 large eggs
2 tablespoons water
1/4 cup grated Romano cheese
1 clove garlic, through a press
2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Salt and pepper to taste
2 cups bread crumbs
Olive oil
Lemons and parsley for garnish

If you purchase frozen swordfish steaks that are fairly thick, slice them in half horizontally while they are still partially frozen, creating two thinner servings from each steak. Rinse them, pat them dry and set aside.

Beat the eggs with the water, cheese, garlic, parsley, salt and pepper. For the best flavor, do not substitute with dried parsley, and be sure to use the flat-leaf (Italian) parsley. Dip each piece of fish in the egg/cheese mixture and then in the bread crumbs. Pat the crumbs onto the fish with the palm of your hands to make sure they adhere well. Place the fish on wax paper and let it stand for 30 minutes, turning once.

Heat the olive oil in a skillet and carefully fry the fish to a golden brown. Place the fish in a baking pan or jellyroll pan and bake in a preheated 325-degree oven for 30 minutes. Serve on a platter decorated with lemon wedges and fresh parsley.


BACCALA ALLA SICILIANA
(Codfish, Sicilian-Style)

2 pounds fresh or frozen codfish
4 potatoes, pared and quartered
1/2 cup olive oil
1 large onion, sliced
2 cloves garlic, through a press
1/2 cup dry white wine
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 (8-ounce) jar black Italian olives, pitted
2 tablespoons capers
2 tablespoons pine nuts
2 tablespoons golden raisins,
2 pounds fresh tomatoes, peeled, seeded, drained and chopped OR
1 (28-ounce) can of tomatoes, seeded, drained and chopped
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
1 teaspoon basil

Cut the fish into serving pieces, rinse and pat them dry. Cook the potatoes in boiling salted water, covered, for about 5 to 7 minutes. Drain them and reserve the water, which may be added to the casserole later if additional liquid is needed.

Put the oil into a large skillet and sauté the onion and garlic until golden in color. Put the cod pieces over the onion-garlic mixture and cover with the wine. Season with salt and pepper and cook until the wine has almost evaporated.

Carefully transfer the fish to a large greased earthenware or glass casserole. Arrange the potatoes between and around the fish. Add the olives, capers, pine nuts, and raisins, distributing them over the fish and potatoes.

Cover everything with the chopped tomatoes and the onion-garlic mixture from the skillet. Sprinkle with parsley and basil and season with additional salt and pepper. Bake in a preheated 350-degree oven for 30 to 35 minutes, or until the fish flakes easily. Halfway through the cooking time, check the casserole to see if additional liquid is necessary.


FETTE DI TONNO FRITTO CON CIPOLLE
(Sliced Fresh Tuna Fried with Onions)

1-1/2 pounds fresh or frozen tuna, sliced 1/4-inch thick
1/3 cup flour
1/2 teaspoon garlic salt
1/2 teaspoon each: dried basil, dried oregano
1/3 cup olive oil
1 large onion, thickly sliced
1/4 cup wine vinegar
2 tablespoons water
Salt and pepper to taste
1/2 to 1 teaspoon sugar
Fresh parsley and basil, chopped (optional garnish)

Cut the tuna into serving pieces. If you purchase frozen tuna steaks, they may be cut in half horizontally while still partially frozen to create 1/4-inch servings. Rinse and pat dry. Mix the flour with the garlic salt and herbs. Dust the tuna slices in the seasoned flour. Heat the oil in a non-stick skillet and brown the tuna in the hot oil without crowding the pan. Place the fish on a large dish or small platter, slightly overlapping the slices.

Add the onion to the skillet and cook over moderate heat until limp and lightly browned. Add the vinegar, water, salt, pepper and sugar. Cook a few minutes to combine the flavors. Pour the mixture evenly over the tuna slices. Let stand a half-hour and serve. If desired, sprinkle with chopped parsley and basil just before serving. This dish is also very good served cold.


FRUTTI DI MARE
(Seafood Salad)

1 pound medium shrimp
1 pound calamari, cleaned and cut into rings
1/2 pound bay scallops or sea scallops
1 small onion, diced
1/2 cup minced celery
2 tablespoons minced red or green pepper (optional)
Condimento di Limone ed Olio (see below)
Parsley for garnish (optional)

Cook the shrimp, calamari and scallops separately in boiling salted water with 1 tablespoon of lemon juice added.

Cook the shrimp 2 to 5 minutes or until they turn pink. Remove the shells and back veins.

To cook the calamari, add them to boiling water, reduce to a simmer, and cook approximately 10 to 15 minutes. Test for doneness. The rings should not be rubbery.

If sea scallops are used cut them each in half. Cook the scallops only until they are no longer translucent. After about 1 minute they will appear white and they are done.

Combine the prepared seafood with the onion, celery and pepper (if using). Toss well with a generous amount of the Lemon and Oil Dressing. Chill. At serving time place in a serving bowl using a slotted spoon. Pour some of the Lemon Dressing over the seafood. Sprinkle with snips of parsley, if desired.


CONDIMENTO DI LIMONE ED OLIO
(Lemon and Oil Dressing)

1/2 cup lemon juice from fresh lemons
1 clove garlic, through a press
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley or 1 teaspoon dried
3 large basil leaves, chopped or 1 teaspoon dried
2 fresh mint leaves, chopped or 1/2 teaspoon dried
1/2 teaspoon oregano, or to taste
1/2 teaspoon onion salt
1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste
1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper, or to taste
1 cup olive oil

Ream the juice from 2 or 3 lemons, until 1/2 cup is accumulated. Put it in a bowl and add all the ingredients except the olive oil. Mix and stir to dissolve the salts. Add the oil, slowly beating it into the mixture. If not used immediately, store the dressing in a tightly covered container in the refrigerator. Shake well before each use.

NOTE: Another traditional Christmas Eve dish for our family is a cold broccoli salad served with this same dressing. Arrange the cooked broccoli on a large round platter to resemble a wreath and decorate with cherry tomatoes. Place a small bowl of the Lemon Dressing in the center.