Remembering Summer

A few years ago I rediscovered a stash of 8-millimeter home movies among the treasures of my Aunt Christina. Over 50 years old and shot primarily outdoors, the grainy images bolster my memories of childhood summers. In scene after scene, three generations of our family are gathered in parks and picnic groves and backyards. The children are chasing each other or playing made-up games; great aunts are fanning themselves or comforting a baby. Huge jugs of lemonade line every picnic table and, invariably, my Grandma or Uncle Andrew is standing over a charcoal fire tending homemade sausage and grilling marinated chicken for the feast.

These are still the foods I think of when planning a picnic, and I try to devise other portable dishes to bring along. To past generations of my family, all food was portable since they didn’t mind the planning and effort that it took to carry it off. More and more it seems that, after a long work week, people favor the expediency of catered provisions for their outings. Yet since I have such strong memories of lovingly prepared picnic foods, I still prefer to come up with a few homemade dishes that travel well.

One such dish is Eggplant Parmigiana since we like it hot, warm, or at room temperature. I enjoyed my friend Tena Amico’s version so much that I asked her to share the recipe. I’m also including some simpler dishes that remind me of the flavors from my mother's kitchen but will get you out of the kitchen fast.

This month I hope you’ll set aside some time, find a shady spot, and enjoy an outdoor meal with your loved ones -- especially the children in your life.



CIABATTA IMBOTTITA
(Picnic Sandwich Loaf)

1 (1 pound) loaf ciabatta bread
Olive oil
Olivada (Italian olive spread)
Pesto sauce (optional)
6 slices salami
6 slices cappicola
6 slices prosciutto
6 slices provolone
Roasted red peppers
Fresh basil leaves (optional)
Red leaf lettuce

Cut the ciabatta loaf in half lengthwise and drizzle both sides with olive oil. Spread olivada on both sides, or use olivada on one side and pesto sauce on the other. Layer the bottom half with the meats and cheese. Top with sliced roasted peppers and, if not using the pesto, shredded fresh basil. Add the leaf lettuce. Carefully place the top of the bread over all and press down firmly. Wrap the loaf in plastic wrap and then in foil to transport to your picnic. Don’t forget to bring a serrated knife to cut the loaf into four servings. Alternately, you can purchase 4 ciabatta rolls and make individual sandwiches.

NOTE: Ciabatta, which means “slipper,” refers the shape of the bread. It is appearing more frequently in stores and bakeries. You can purchase commercial olivada, or use the olive spread recipe that follows. Pesto sauce is also sold in small jars.


-Lori Sennebogen



OLIVÉ TRITATE
(Chopped Olive Spread)

6 ounces pimento-stuffed Manzanilla olives, minced
1 (4-1/2 ounce) can chopped black olives
5 or 6 tablespoons olive oil
1/4 teaspoon oregano (or to taste)
1/4 teaspoon Tabasco (or to taste)
1 clove garlic, pressed

Finely mince the green olives and pimentos and stir together with the chopped black olives. (You may substitute an equal amount of Mediterranean black olives for added flavor.) Combine with the remaining ingredients. Store in a covered container for at least one day before serving to allow the flavors to blend. This is good as a spread on sandwiches made with Italian lunchmeats. Alternately it may be served as a party appetizer spread, surrounded with thinly sliced, crusty bread.


-Lori Sennebogen



MELANZANA ALLA PARMIGIANA
(Eggplant Parmigiana)

2 medium eggplants
Salt
1 egg mixed with 1 ounce water
Seasoned breadcrumbs (recipe follows)
Olive oil
Corn oil
Marinara Sauce (recipe follows)
3 ounces Romano Cheese, grated
8 ounces (or more) mozzarella cheese, grated

Prepare the seasoned breadcrumbs and marinara sauce in advance and set aside. Trim off the top and bottom of the eggplants but DO NOT PEEL. Slice them 1/4-inch thick and place the slices in a colander, salting each layer. Place a heavy bowl or something else of weight on top. Allow to rest for at least 30 minutes. Pat each slice dry with paper towels. Beat the egg and water together. Dip the slices in the egg and then in the seasoned breadcrumbs. Set aside to let the crumbs dry and adhere to the eggplant.

Add half olive oil and half corn oil to a skillet to a depth of 1-1/2 inches and heat well. When the oil is very hot, brown the slices of eggplant on both sides and set aside on a plate lined with paper towels.

Cover the bottom of a 13-inch by 9-inch glass casserole or baking pan with a small amount of the marinara sauce. Add a layer of the eggplant slices, top with some sauce and then grated Romano and grated mozzarella. Continue layering in that order, finishing up with the mozzarella cheese. Use the mozzarella generously or sparingly, depending on your preference.

Bake in a preheated 350-degree oven for approximately 30 minutes or until the cheese is melted. Covering with aluminum foil is optional.


Seasoned Breadcrumbs

1/2 loaf Italian bread, one day old
4-5 sprigs flat-leaf parsley
4 cloves garlic, cut up
2 ounces Romano cheese, grated
Salt and pepper to taste

If using fresh bread, toast it slightly. Place the cut up dry bread in a food processor or blender and grind briefly. Add the parsley, garlic, cheese, salt and pepper. Grind again until it reaches a semi-fine breadcrumb consistency.

This is a good mixture to keep on hand for many recipes. Any unused crumbs may be stored in a sealable plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to 2 months.


Marinara Sauce

1 small onion, minced
2-3 cloves garlic, minced
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 (16-ounce) can crushed tomatoes
1 (8-ounce) can tomato sauce
1 cup water
3-4 basil leaves, chopped
Salt and pepper to taste

Sauté the onion and garlic in the olive oil until they begin to take on color. Do not let them burn. Add the remaining ingredients and cook on medium heat for 30 minutes.


-Tena Amico



FUSILLI ALLA ZIA CRISTINA
(Aunt Christina’s Fusilli Salad)

4 cups (8 ounces) fusilli or rotini
1 tablespoon corn oil
2 cups green beans, cut in 1-inch pieces
1/4 pound salami, cut in strips
1/4 pound provolone cheese, cut in cubes
1/4 cup sliced red onion
1/2 cup sliced black olives (optional)
1 (6.5-ounce) jar artichoke hearts, drained (optional)
2 cups shredded lettuce

Dressing: 3 tablespoons red wine vinegar, 1/4 cup olive oil, 1 teaspoon each oregano, basil and prepared mustard, 2 cloves crushed garlic, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1/4 teaspoon sugar, 1/8 teaspoon pepper. Blend together and set aside.

Cook pasta, rinse under cold water and drain well. In a large bowl, toss the pasta with 1 tablespoon of corn oil. Cover and chill.

Blanch the green beans for 5 minutes, then rinse in cold water. Drain well. Add the beans, salami, cheese, onions and optional olives and artichoke hearts to the pasta. Pour on the dressing and combine well. Chill 2 to 4 hours. Just before serving add the shredded lettuce and toss again.

-Christine Dugo



POMODORI ALLA PIEMONTESE
(Tomatoes with Green Sauce)

5 medium ripe tomatoes
3-4 anchovies, minced
2 cups fresh flat-leaf parsley, minced
2 tablespoons capers, minced
1 small clove garlic, minced
1/2 cup olive oil
1/4 cup wine vinegar
Salt and black pepper to taste

Select tomatoes that are ripe but still firm and slice them 1/4-inch thick. Arrange the slices on a platter. Combine the finely minced anchovies, parsley, capers and garlic in a mixing bowl. Thoroughly whisk in the olive oil and vinegar. Add salt to taste, depending on the saltiness of the anchovies. Add pepper and taste again. Seal tightly in a jar and transport the sauce and tomatoes separately to your picnic. Shake the sauce very well and spoon it over the tomatoes just before serving. Optional: add your favorite black olives to the platter of tomatoes.


-adapted from Rudy Leoni